Sury-en-Vaux and Bue
A challenging vintage that tested even the finest producers—and an opportunity to see what traditional Barolo mastery achieves when nature is difficult
specifically—layered into rum of aged complexity
Lorenzo Accomasso (who passed away on August 8
Serio e Battista Borgogno is a true traditionalist in Barolo
Giovanni Canonica, Barolo Paiagallo, 2021 BDXCOUNT0125 Sury-en-Vaux and BueThis is the bottle that made Giovanni Canonica a cult. Paiagallo is his home cru, a warm slope tucked just below the village of Barolo, and he treats it the way his grandfather's generation would have: long macerations, big old Slavonian casks, minimal sulfur, no fining, no filtration, no fuss. What comes out is Nebbiolo at its most transparent pale garnet, wildly perfumed, all rose petal and sour cherry and tar, with a tannic frame that is firm